Replacing a Multipoint Lock System in a uPVC Door

Door with completed replacement Multipoint Lock

The deadlock in this uPVC door failed so it was time to replace it with a new one. For the most part their are a couple of variants for the dimensions of Euro Profile door mechanisms. The face plate can be 16mm or 20mm in width and the depth from the centre of the cylinder to the face plate can be 35mm or 45mm. This one was a 16mm face plate width and 35mm cylinder depth.

First unscrew the handles and take the bolt out of the face plate that keeps the Euro Cylinder in place.

Undo screws and remove Extension Bars and Lock Plate
Undo screws and remove Extension Bars and Lock Plate

Then using the key adjust the revolving cam inside the Euro Cylinder to be in the downward position and pull the Euro Cylinder out. This will be used in the replacement system.

Euro Cylinder being removed by turning the key to put the revolving cam in a downward position to enable it to be pulled out
Euro Cylinder being removed by turning the key to put the revolving cam in a downward position to enable it to be pulled out

Then remove the face plate. Some times there can be separate face plates for the hooks at the top and bottom and the latch and lock in the middle. The replacement for this system has separate plates so the latch and lock plate is offered up first. The existing housing in the uPVC door needs some adjustment so that is cut using a drill and multitool to fit the new latch and lock case.

Adjust Centre Latch and Deadlock Housing
Adjust Centre Latch and Deadlock Housing

Once the lock case fits into the door then pilot holes are drilled in the door in the positions where the screws will be fitted to secure the face plate. The screws are then put into the face plate and tightened up. At this point put the Euro Cylinder is put back into the lock case using the key to make sure the revolving cam is in the downward position and the bolt is screwed back in to secure the Euro Cylinder. Put the spindle back through the latch and place the handles back on the door and do up their retaining bolts. Make sure the latch and deadlock move freely when turning the handle.

Offer up the latch and lock plate keep to the frame and make sure the existing keep housing in the door frame is in the right position otherwise adjust as required. On this system there is a datum line on the face plate in the door that has to match up with a datum line on the keep. The keeps for this system have packing grub screws to allow a secure footing when the keep overlaps thinner keep gully’s of the old door frame but they are not long enough for these older frames so I used pieces of wood screwed into the metal part of the door frame by drilling pilot holes and securing the wood strips with self tapping screws. Then drill pilot holes for the keep screws and screw the keep to the frame. Test shutting and locking the door and adjust the keep plates as necessary with the grub screw adjusters.

Lock Keep fitted in position and being adjusted to accept Latch and Deadlock
Lock Keep fitted in position with packing and being adjusted to accept Latch and Deadlock

This system has a roller as well as a hook to pull the door tight when turning the handle but some just have a hook. Offer up the bottom hook and roller face plate and adjust the housing in the door by cutting the uPVC as necessary.

Adjust bottom housing for hook case
Adjust bottom housing for hook case

When offering up the hook plate make sure the hook is in the fully retracted position when you place the outer male toothed conrod of the hook face plate into the female toothed conrod of the centre lock plate.

Centre Lock Plate Conrod with Female Toothed Section
Centre Lock Plate Conrod with Female Toothed Section

The hook unit case is also sometimes called the gearbox. When you are happy that the hook plate is in the best position to work with the centre lock plate and the existing keep housing in the door frame make pilot holes where the fixing screws should go through the door and then insert the screws and do them up. This system has a cover plate which has a location pip which locates in the centre lock plate and then a grub screw into the hook plate to cover the join between the two.

Cover Plate for Centre Lock Plate and Hook Plate
Cover Plate for Centre Lock Plate and Hook Plate

Go through the same process for the bottom hook plate keep as was applied to the centre lock plate keep and test the mechanism. Pay special attention to the hooks and that they clear the bottom of the keep when closing. Repeat the process for the top lock plate keep.

Top Hook and Roller keep fitted to the frame with packing
Top Hook and Roller keep fitted to the frame with packing

Once all the keeps are fitted test closing, locking, un-locking and re-opening the door.

Door with completed replacement Multipoint Lock
Door with completed replacement Multipoint Lock

How to maximise space by turning a standard 6 panel door into bifold doors

6 panel bi-fold doors

I have just such a room, a dining room, that has high traffic and is also used as a temporary work space. It has 2 entrances, one from the kitchen and one from the lounge, with the 2 sets of doors being close together. One of the doorways has a double door which really protrudes into the room. One of the double doors is always clattering into the door of the kitchen and blocking the walkway space into the room.

The solution was to make the double doors from the lounge into bifolds thus tucking the doors out of the way and stopping them from clashing with the kitchen door while freeing up walkway space around the door area.

My initial search for 6 panel doors that came as readymade bifolds revealed only that they came as part of a kit where there was a track that would go along the header of the door in which the bifolded doors would run. The logic behind this was that the track was needed to support the doors when closed and keep them straight in the doorframe. This meant the doors in the kit were 30 or 40 millimetres shorter due to the track mechanism than I needed. I was planning to use thumb turned rack bolts at the top and bottom of the door to hold the doors shut so I wanted full height doors.

The only option was to take 2 standard hollow 6 panel doors and turn them into a bifold doors.

t3274_165871_00

The doors were slightly too big for the opening so a line was scribed along the top with the doors with the doors being parallel to the jam on the hinge side giving the door a couple of millimetres clearance between the door and the header when cut. If the threshold of the door is not parallel with the bottom of the door then scribe a line on the bottom of the door as well. Make sure that timber removed from the top and bottom of the door leaves a gap above and below the door of a couple of millimetres. The timber was carefully removed using a fine 60 tooth bladed circular saw.

door_frame_parts

The doors were cut down the centre of the panels using the circular saw. The doors were clamped on top of 2 work benches. Cutting the doors in half revealed the hollow insides of the doors which are filled with thin cardboard. The cardboard was pushed in to allow timber battens that were planed to 27mm thick and 36mm wide to be glued in the gap and clamped.

door_cut_in_half

The timber battens were allowed to set for 24 hours. The hinges were then marked up on the doors matching the existing hinge placements. The hinge housings were then cut out using a router to a depth of 1.5 times the thickness of the hinge leaves. The housing needs to be deep enough to take the hinge leaf and accept part of the depth of the hinge knuckle. See the diagram below of the parts of a hinge being the knuckle, leaf and cap.

parts_of_a_hinge

Don’t worry if the housings are too deep as the hinge depth can be fine tuned with pieces of thin card or paper placed in the housing. Old Christmas cards or Birthday cards are good for this. I used grade 7 fire rated ball bearing hinges to give the doors stability and a smooth movement.

door_clamped

Clamp the 2 doors together and mark the position of the hinges that join the 2 doors together. Then using the router chop out the housings for the hinges. Fit the hinges to the 2 doors so that they join together and then hang the door into the frame. Repeat these steps for the other door. Adjust the depth of the hinges to allow the minimum gap when closed.

bifold_6_panel_doors

If the doors are too wide then trim the door on the hinge side and use the router to recreate the housings for the hinges. If the gap between the doors is too big then use cardboard or paper shims placed under the hinge to close the gap.I used thumb turns and rack bolts to finish off the doors and allow them to be locked into position when closed.

bifold_doors_open